Natural Cosmetics, Skincare & Rituals

01 · Hydration

Aloe Vera

INCI · Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Typical origin: From the inner leaf gel of Aloe vera. For cosmetic use it is filtered, processed and stabilised; juice, powder and reconstituted material are distinct raw-material forms.
Ingredient class: Botanical leaf juice and hydrating formulation ingredient
In the formula: Introduces a water-rich base into the formula and can complement both skin feel and the product’s hydration profile.
Why context matters: “Aloe” alone says little about concentration, processing or preservation. The form and level at which the raw material is used are what matter.

02 · Botanicals

Bakuchiol

INCI · Bakuchiol

Typical origin: A lipophilic plant-derived substance typically isolated from the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia) and subsequently purified.
Ingredient class: Isolated botanical active and antioxidant ingredient
In the formula: Used in skincare as an antioxidant and skin-conditioning ingredient, particularly within oil-based phases.
Why context matters: Bakuchiol is not chemically retinol. Purity, concentration, stabilisation and the complete formulation determine what a product can genuinely deliver.

03 · Stability

Benzyl Alcohol

INCI · Benzyl Alcohol

Typical origin: Occurs naturally in various plants and essential oils, but may also be manufactured industrially for cosmetic-grade use. The INCI name does not identify the source.
Ingredient class: Aromatic alcohol; depending on use, a solvent, fragrance component or preservative
In the formula: Can dissolve ingredients and, within a balanced system, contribute to the microbiological stability of a water-based formula.
Why context matters: Its role depends on concentration and interaction with other ingredients. The word “Alcohol” does not make it directly comparable with ethanol, nor justify a blanket judgement.

04 · Hydration

Betaine

INCI · Betaine

Typical origin: Often obtained from sugar beet, though other industrial manufacturing routes are possible. The exact feedstock depends on the supplier.
Ingredient class: Zwitterionic osmolyte and humectant
In the formula: Supports water binding and can help create a more balanced sensory profile within a formulation.
Why context matters: Betaine is not the same substance as Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Name, substance class and cosmetic function need to be considered separately.

05 · Botanicals

Bisabolol

INCI · Bisabolol

Typical origin: May be isolated from plants such as candeia or chamomile, or produced synthetically. The shared INCI name does not reveal the specific source.
Ingredient class: Sesquiterpene alcohol and skin-conditioning ingredient
In the formula: Used to support the care experience and skin-conditioning profile of a formulation; it may also possess a subtle inherent aroma.
Why context matters: Source, isomer composition, purity and dosage all influence raw-material quality. “Plant-derived” is therefore not the only relevant specification.

06 · Lipids

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

INCI · Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Typical origin: Produced from glycerin and caprylic/capric acids. The fatty acids are often derived from coconut or palm-kernel oil; the precise supply chain varies.
Ingredient class: Light neutral ester oil and emollient
In the formula: Improves spreadability, acts as a carrier for oil-soluble ingredients and can make rich formulas feel lighter on the skin.
Why context matters: A technical-sounding name is not a verdict on quality. The origin of the feedstocks, purity and role within the complete formula matter more.

07 · Texture & Emulsion

Cellulose Gum

INCI · Cellulose Gum

Typical origin: Made from plant cellulose that is deliberately chemically modified so it can perform effectively in water-based formulations.
Ingredient class: Cellulose derivative, thickener and stabiliser
In the formula: Controls viscosity, supports the even distribution of ingredients and can stabilise the flow behaviour of a formula.
Why context matters: A plant-derived starting material may be technically processed. Natural origin and processing are not opposites; both need to be described precisely.

08 · Texture & Emulsion

Cetearyl Alcohol

INCI · Cetearyl Alcohol

Typical origin: A blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohol. The underlying fatty acids may come from plant fats or be produced industrially.
Ingredient class: Fatty alcohol, consistency agent and co-emulsifier
In the formula: Gives emulsions body, supports stability and can contribute to a smooth, supple skin feel.
Why context matters: Fatty alcohols are not equivalent to volatile ethanol. A shared word ending does not imply the same effect on skin or formulation.

09 · Stability

Citric Acid

INCI · Citric Acid

Typical origin: For cosmetic use, it is usually produced biotechnologically by fermenting sugar-containing feedstocks—not simply pressed from lemons.
Ingredient class: Organic acid and pH adjuster
In the formula: Helps set the pH of a formulation, supporting the function of other ingredients and the stability of the product.
Why context matters: The INCI name reveals neither the amount used nor the final pH. Only the finished formula allows a meaningful assessment.

10 · Cleansing

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

INCI · Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Typical origin: Built from fatty acids—often derived from coconut or palm-kernel oil—and other industrially manufactured intermediates.
Ingredient class: Amphoteric surfactant and cleansing formulation ingredient
In the formula: Supports cleansing and foam formation and is often combined with other surfactants to create a more balanced sensory profile.
Why context matters: It is not chemically the same as Betaine. Raw-material purity, accompanying substances, concentration and the complete surfactant system are decisive.

11 · Cleansing

Coco-Glucoside

INCI · Coco-Glucoside

Typical origin: Produced from glucose and a blend of long-chain fatty alcohols, often derived from coconut or palm-kernel oil.
Ingredient class: Non-ionic sugar surfactant
In the formula: Lifts oils and soil in water-based cleansers and can also support emulsification and foam formation.
Why context matters: “Coco” describes a typical raw-material base, not necessarily the full supply chain. Mildness arises from concentration, pH and the surfactant blend.

12 · Cleansing

Decyl Glucoside

INCI · Decyl Glucoside

Typical origin: Manufactured from glucose and decyl alcohol; the feedstocks commonly come from sugar or starch sources and plant oils.
Ingredient class: Non-ionic sugar surfactant
In the formula: Performs cleansing and foam-forming functions and is often used as one part of a combined surfactant system.
Why context matters: Even a surfactant regarded as mild should not be assessed in isolation. Concentration, pH, contact time and combination shape the finished product.

13 · Stability

Dehydroacetic Acid

INCI · Dehydroacetic Acid

Typical origin: An industrially manufactured organic substance. It is not extracted from a plant, even though it may be permitted in certified natural cosmetics.
Ingredient class: Preservative
In the formula: Within a balanced preservation system, it can help keep water-based cosmetics microbiologically stable.
Why context matters: A single preservative says little about safety or quality. pH, packaging, manufacturing hygiene and challenge testing all belong to the system.

14 · Hydration

Glycerin

INCI · Glycerin

Typical origin: For cosmetic use, it is often obtained from plant oils; synthetic manufacture is also possible. The INCI name does not state the exact source.
Ingredient class: Polyhydric alcohol and humectant
In the formula: Binds water within the formula and at the skin’s surface, supporting a supple, hydrated skin feel.
Why context matters: Concentration, climate and accompanying ingredients determine whether a formula feels light, rich or potentially tacky.

15 · Texture & Emulsion

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

INCI · Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Typical origin: An ester of glycerin, stearic acid and citric acid. The feedstocks may be predominantly plant-derived; the exact supply chain remains raw-material specific.
Ingredient class: Anionic emulsifier and consistency agent
In the formula: Connects oil and water phases, supports emulsion stability and shapes the consistency and spreadability of a cream.
Why context matters: An emulsifier rarely works alone. Co-emulsifiers, the lipid phase, manufacturing process and pH determine the final texture.

16 · Botanicals

Green Tea Extract

INCI · Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Typical origin: Obtained from the leaves of the tea plant. Solvent, temperature and processing determine which constituents remain in the cosmetic extract.
Ingredient class: Botanical extract containing polyphenolic constituents
In the formula: Used as an antioxidant and skin-conditioning ingredient in water- or glycerin-based extracts.
Why context matters: “Green tea” does not describe a standardised active level. Extraction medium, ratio, concentration and stabilisation are essential to interpretation.

17 · Lipids

Rosehip Oil

INCI · Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Typical origin: Obtained from rosehip fruit or seeds, depending on the raw-material definition and extraction method. It may be pressed, extracted or refined.
Ingredient class: Plant oil and emollient
In the formula: Adds triglycerides and fatty acids to the oil phase and influences suppleness, richness and the sensory character of a formula.
Why context matters: A botanical name and romantic origin do not replace quality specifications. Freshness, oxidation protection, processing and level of use matter too.

18 · Hydration

Hyaluronic Acid

INCI · Hyaluronic Acid / Sodium Hyaluronate

Typical origin: For cosmetic use, it is now predominantly produced biotechnologically through fermentation. Further processing determines its form and molecular weight.
Ingredient class: Water-binding polysaccharide and humectant
In the formula: Can bind water, form a fine film and influence both texture and skin feel in a water-based product.
Why context matters: The name reveals neither molecular weight nor concentration. “With hyaluronic acid” alone is therefore not a robust statement about the formulation.

19 · Lipids

Jojoba Oil

INCI · Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Typical origin: Obtained from the seeds of the jojoba shrub. The material is usually pressed and may then be filtered, deodorised or further refined.
Ingredient class: Liquid botanical wax and emollient
In the formula: Supports spreadability and suppleness and is valued for its comparatively good oxidative stability.
Why context matters: Even a valuable botanical raw material does not create a balanced product on its own. Processing, proportion and combination with other lipids remain decisive.

20 · Texture & Emulsion

Lecithin

INCI · Lecithin

Typical origin: A mixture of phospholipids, commonly from sunflower or soy, though other sources are possible. The INCI name does not define the source.
Ingredient class: Phospholipid, emulsifier and skin-conditioning ingredient
In the formula: Helps unite oil and water phases, supports ingredient distribution and can round out the skin feel of an emulsion.
Why context matters: Source, purification and phospholipid profile can differ considerably. “Lecithin” therefore does not denote identical raw-material quality in every case.

21 · Stability

Potassium Sorbate

INCI · Potassium Sorbate

Typical origin: The potassium salt of sorbic acid is manufactured industrially. Although sorbic acid occurs in nature, cosmetic-grade material is not simply derived from berries.
Ingredient class: Preservative
In the formula: In suitable pH ranges, it is used particularly to help control yeasts and moulds within a combined protection system.
Why context matters: Performance depends strongly on pH, concentration and partner ingredients. A safe formulation needs to be tested as a complete system.

22 · Botanicals

Calendula Extract

INCI · Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Typical origin: Obtained from calendula flowers. Depending on the raw material, their constituents are extracted into water, glycerin, alcohol or a plant oil.
Ingredient class: Botanical flower extract
In the formula: Used as a skin-conditioning botanical ingredient; the extraction medium itself may also form part of the formulation.
Why context matters: Two calendula extracts can have very different compositions. Extraction medium, ratio, plant quality and dosage all need to be considered.

23 · Lipids

Shea Butter

INCI · Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Typical origin: Obtained from the kernels of the shea fruit. It may be produced traditionally or industrially and refined to different degrees.
Ingredient class: Plant fat and rich emollient
In the formula: Gives formulations body, increases their replenishing character and strongly influences melting behaviour and skin feel.
Why context matters: Unrefined is not automatically better for every formula. Aroma, colour, stability, purity and desired sensoriality determine the appropriate quality.

24 · Stability

Sodium Benzoate

INCI · Sodium Benzoate

Typical origin: The sodium salt of benzoic acid is manufactured industrially. Benzoic acid also occurs naturally, but the INCI name does not reveal the source.
Ingredient class: Preservative
In the formula: Within a suitable formula and pH environment, it supports the microbiological protection of water-based cosmetics.
Why context matters: Performance does not arise from the name alone. pH, combination, packaging, manufacturing hygiene and challenge testing all work together.

25 · Cleansing

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

INCI · Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Typical origin: Manufactured through a controlled industrial process from glutamic acid and fatty acids, often derived from coconut or palm-kernel oil.
Ingredient class: Anionic amino-acid surfactant
In the formula: Provides cleansing and foam-forming functions and is often used to build a surfactant system designed with mildness in mind.
Why context matters: “Amino-acid surfactant” is not a guarantee for every skin. Salt form, pH, concentration and combination determine the actual cleansing feel.

26 · Hydration

Sodium PCA

INCI · Sodium PCA

Typical origin: The sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is manufactured industrially. Feedstock and production route can vary by raw-material supplier.
Ingredient class: Humectant; chemically related to a component of the skin’s natural moisturising factor
In the formula: Binds water and complements a formula’s hydration profile, often together with glycerin, betaine or other humectants.
Why context matters: It does not act in isolation. The aqueous phase, lipids, concentration and conditions of use jointly shape how the product feels on skin.

27 · Lipids

Sunflower Seed Oil

INCI · Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Typical origin: Obtained from sunflower seeds by pressing or extraction. Variety and degree of refining influence the balance of fatty acids present.
Ingredient class: Botanical triglyceride oil and emollient
In the formula: Serves as a caring oil phase and carrier for lipophilic ingredients, influencing suppleness and richness.
Why context matters: Not every sunflower oil is identical. Fatty-acid profile, freshness, refining, antioxidant protection and packaging determine suitability.

28 · Lipids

Squalane

INCI · Squalane

Typical origin: Produced by hydrogenating squalene. In modern cosmetics, the squalene often comes from olives or sugar cane; the INCI name itself does not state the feedstock.
Ingredient class: Saturated hydrocarbon and lightweight emollient
In the formula: Improves slip and spreadability and gives a supple skin feel without necessarily making a formula heavy.
Why context matters: Plant source, purity, sustainability standard and combination with other lipids need to be assessed separately.

29 · Stability

Tocopherol

INCI · Tocopherol

Typical origin: May be isolated and concentrated from plant oils or produced synthetically. Form, purity and source cannot be identified from the INCI name alone.
Ingredient class: Vitamin E compound and antioxidant
In the formula: Primarily helps protect sensitive components of the oil phase from oxidation and may also be used for skin conditioning.
Why context matters: An antioxidant is not a complete preservation system against microorganisms. Packaging, protection from light and the full formula remain important.

30 · Texture & Emulsion

Xanthan Gum

INCI · Xanthan Gum

Typical origin: Produced by fermenting sugars with microorganisms of the Xanthomonas genus; the polysaccharide is then purified and dried.
Ingredient class: Polysaccharide, gelling agent and viscosity modifier
In the formula: Thickens the aqueous phase, stabilises suspended material and helps keep ingredients evenly distributed throughout a formula.
Why context matters: Even small quantities can strongly alter flow behaviour and skin feel. Sugar feedstock, grade and combination with other gelling agents vary.